Three Days in the Kathmandu Valley

Day one: the city of Kathmandu

Start early at Swayambhunath while the monkeys are still waking up and the valley is clear. Walk down through the old town to Kathmandu Durbar Square, then lose the afternoon in the courtyards and bead markets around Indra Chowk. Finish at Boudhanath as the lamps are lit and the kora fills with pilgrims.

Day two: Patan

Twenty minutes across the river, Patan is the craftsman’s city. The Durbar Square is more coherent than Kathmandu’s and the Patan Museum is the best in the country. Spend the afternoon in the metalworking lanes around the Golden Temple and eat a Newari meal in a courtyard restaurant.

Day three: Bhaktapur

An hour east, Bhaktapur is a town that still feels medieval: car-free brick squares, potters drying their work in the sun, and the five-tiered Nyatapola temple. Stay the night if you can; the evening after the day-trippers leave is the best part.

Practical notes

• All three Durbar Squares charge a foreigner entry fee; Bhaktapur’s is valid for several days if you register.
• Taxis and ride-hailing apps are the simplest way between the cities.
• Dress modestly and remove shoes where asked at temples.